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Preheat the oven to gas 7, 220°C, fan 200°C. Prick the potatoes all over with a knife, then rub with 2 tsp of oil, season and put on a baking tray. Bake for 35-40 mins or until tender.
Meanwhile, heat 1 tsp of oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Add the bacon and fry for 5 mins, stirring, until crisp. Transfer to a plate and set aside. Reduce the heat to low, add the garlic and cook for 2-3 mins until soft and fragrant but not coloured. Set aside.
Halve the potatoes lengthways and set aside for 5 mins to cool. Scoop out the flesh into a bowl. Mash, then stir in the crème fraîche, bacon, garlic and parsley; season with pepper. Return the skins to the tray, then fill with the mash and top with the cheese. Bake for 10 mins.
Arrange the kale on a baking tray and drizzle with 2 tsp oil. Bake for 5 mins (or until crisp), tossing halfway through. Serve with the loaded potatoes.